The Innocents Abroad

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

1. THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM—FRONTPIECE
2. ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE-THE PILGRIM’S VISION
3. “I ‘LL PAY YOU IN PARIS"
4. THE START
5. “GOOD MORNING, SIR"
6. THE OLD PIRATE
7. DANCING UNDER DIFFICULTIES
8. THE MOCK TRIAL
9. “LAND, HO!”
10. THE CAPOTE
11. RUIN AND DESOLATION
12. PORT OF HORTA, FAYAL
13. “SEKKI-YAH"
14. BEAUTIFUL STRANGER
15. ROCK OF GIBRALTAR
16. “QUEEN’S CHAIR"
17. THE ORACLE
18. THE INTERROGATION POINT
19. GARRISON AT MALABAT
20. ENTERTAINING AN ANGEL
21. VIEW OF A STREET IN TANGIER
22. CHANGE FOR A NAPOLEON
23. THE CONSUL’S FAMILY
24. “POET LARIAT"
25. FIRST SUPPER IN FRANCE
26. PAINTING
27. RINGING FOR SOAP
28. “WINE, SIR!”
29. THE PILGRIM
30. THE PRISONER
31. HOMELESS FRANCE
32. RAILROAD OFFICIAL IN FRANCE
33. “FIVE MINUTES FOR REFRESHMENTS”—AMERICA
34. “THIRTY MINUTES FOR DINNER”—FRANCE
35. THE OLD TRAVELLER
36. A DECIDED SHAVE
37. A GAS-TLY SUBSTITUTE
38. THE THREE GUIDES
39. “ZE SILK MAGAZIN"
40. RETURN IN WAR PAINT
41. NAPOLEON III
42. ABDUL AZIZ
43. THE MORGUE
44. WE TOOK A WALK
45. THE CAN-CAN
46. GRAVES OF ABELARD AND HELOISE
47. A PAIR OF CANONS OF 13TH CENTURY
48. THE PRIVATE MARRIAGE
49. AMERICAN DRINKS
50. ROYAL HONORS TO A YANKEE
51. THE GRISETTE
52. FOUNTAIN AT VERSAILLES
53. WOMEN OF GENOA
54. PETRIFIED LACKEY
55. PRIEST AND FRIAR
56. STATUE OF COLUMBUS
57. GRAVES OF SIXTY THOUSAND
58. ROOF AND SPIRES OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN
59. CENTRAL DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN
60. INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN
61. BOYHOOD EXPERIENCE
62. TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL
63. CATHEDRAL AT MILAN
64. LA SCALA THEATRE
65. COPYING FROM OLD MASTERS
66. FACIAL EXPRESSION
67. TILE ECHO
68. NOTE BOOK
69. A KISS FOR A FRANC
70. THE FUMIGATION
71. LAKE COMO
72. GARDEN, LAKE COMO
73 SOCIAL DRIVER
74 WAYSIDE SHRINE
75 PEACE AND HAPPINESS
76 CASTLE OF COUNT LUIGI
77 THE WICKED BROTHER
78 DISGUSTED GONDOLIER
79 CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARK
80 THE PEG
81 “GOOD-BY"
82 M’SIEUR GOR-R-DONG
83 MONUMENT TO THE DOOR
84 ST. MARK, MATHEW, JEROME BY THE OLD MASTERS
87 ST. SEBASTIAN, AND ST. UNKNOWN BY THE OLD MASTERS
89 RIALTO BRIDGE AND BRIDGE OF SIGHS
91 FLORENCE
92 THE PENSIONER
93 “I WANT TO GO HOME"
94 THE LEANING TOWER
95 THE CONTRAST
96 ITALIAN PASTIMES
97 INCENDIARY DOCUMENT
98 A ROMAN OF 1869
99 MAMERTINE PRISON
100 OLD ROMAN
101 COLISEUM OF ANCIENT ROME
102 DID NOT COMPLAIN
103 HUMBOLDT HOUSE
104 DAN
105 BRONZE STATUE
106 PENMANSHIP
107 ON A BUST
108 VAULTS OF THE CONVENT
109 DRIED CONVENT FRUITS
110 AT THE STORE
111 AT HOME
112 SOOTHING THE PILGRIMS
113 ASCENT OF MT VESUVIUS
114 BAY OF NAPLES
115 THE MUSTANG
116 ISLAND OF CAPRI
117 BLUE GROTTO
118 VESUVIUS AND BAY of NAPLES
119 THE DESCENT
120 RUINS, POMPEII
121 FORUM OF JUSTICE, POMPEII
122 HOUSE; POMPEII
123 STROMBOLI
124 VIEW OF THE ACROPOLIS, LOOKING WEST
125 “HO"
126 THE ASSAULT
127 THE CARYATIDES
128 THE PARTHENON
129 WE SIDLED, NOT RAN
130 ANCIENT ACROPOLIS
131 RUINS
132 QUEEN OF GREECE
133 PALACE AT ATHENS
134 STREET SCENE IN CONSTANTINOPLE
135 GOOSE RANCHER
136 MOSQUE of ST. SOPHIA
137 TURKISH MAUSOLEUM
138 SLANDERED DOGS
139 THE CENSOR ON DUTY
140 TURKISH BATH
141 FAR-AWAY-MOSES
142 A FRAGMENT
143 A MEMENTO
144 YALTA FROM THE EMPERORS PALACE
145 EMPEROR OF RUSSIA
146 TINSEL KING
147 SHIP EMPEROR
148 THE RECEPTION
149 STREET SCENE IN SMYRNA
150 SMYRNA
151 AN APPARENT SUCCESS
152 DRIFTING TO STARBOARD
153 A SPOILED NAP
154 ANCIENT AMPHITHEATER AT EPHESUS
155 MODERN AMPHITHEATRE AT EPHESUS
156 RUINS OF EPHESUS
157 THE JOURNEY
158 GRAVES OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS
159 THE SELECTION
160 CAMPING OUT
161 ARABS’ TENTS
162 A GOOD FEEDER
163 INTERESTING FETE
164 SUNDAY SCHOOL GRAPES
165 AN OLD FOGY
166 RACE WITH A CAMEL
167 TEMPLE OF TILE SUN
168 RUINS OF BAALBEC
169 HEWN STONES IN QUARRY
170 MERCY
171 PATRON SAINT
172 WATER CAPRIER
173 VIEW OF DAMASCUS
174 STREET CARS OF DAMASCUS
175 FULL DRESSED TOURIST
176 IMPROMPTU HOSPITAL
177 THE HORSE “BAALBEC"
178 OAR OF BASLIAN
179 DANGEROUS ARAB
180 GRIMES ON THE WAR-PATH
181 BEDOUIN CAMP
182 HOME OF ANCIENT POMP
183 JACK
184 A DISAPPOINTED AUDIENCE
185 FIG-TREE
186 “FARE TOO HIGH"
187 SYRIAN HOUSE
188 TIBERIAS AND SEA OF GALILEE
189 THE GUARD
190 MOUNT TABOR
191 GATHERING FUEL
192 FOUNTAIN OF THE VIRGIN
193 “MADONNA-LIKE BEAUTY"
194 PUTNAM OUTDONE
195 THE BASTINADO
196 “I WEPT"
197 WANT OF DIGNITY
198 AN ORIENTAL WELL
199 ARABS SALUTING
200 FREE SONS OF THE DESERT
201 SHECHEM
202 GATE OF JERUSALEM
203 BEGGARS IN JERUSALEM
204 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER
205 GRAVE OF ADAM
206 VIEW OF JERUSALEM
207 THE WANDERING JEW
208 MOSQUE OF OMAR
209 AN EPIDEMIC
210 CHARGE OF BEDOUINS
211 DEAD SEA
212 GROTTO OF THE NATIVITY
213 JAFFA
214 REAR ELEVATION OF JACK
215 STREET IN ALEXANDRIA
216 VICEROY OF EGYPT
217 EASTERN MONARCH
218 MOSES S. BEACH
219 ROOM No. 15
220 THE NILOMETER
221 ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS
222 HIGH HOPES FRUSTRATED
223 KINGS CHAMBER IN THE PYRAMID
224 A POWERFUL ARGUMENT
225 PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX
226 THE RELIC HUNTER
227 THE MAMELUKE’S LEAP
228 WOULD NOT BE COMFORTED
229 THE TRAVELER
230 HOMEWARD BOUND
231 BAD COFFEE
232 OUR FRIENDS THE BERMUDIANS
233 CAPTAIN DUNCAN
234 FINIS

PREFACE

This book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea—other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.

I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel-writing that may be charged against me—for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New York Herald.

THE AUTHOR. SAN FRANCISCO.